The reviewer initially approached Brian Levy's 'Good & Sweet' with skepticism due to the prevalent narrative around sugar but found the book to be a refreshing exploration of alternative sweeteners. They appreciated the detailed ingredient analysis and the innovative recipes that use fruits and other whole foods to create satisfying desserts.
The reviewer initially felt hesitant about Brian Levy's 'Good & Sweet' due to the common narrative that sugar is unhealthy and the push for alternative sweeteners. However, they found the book to be a unique and valuable resource that focuses on exploring ingredients rather than promoting a health agenda. Levy's thorough explanation of how different ingredients contribute to sweetness, texture, and flavor was particularly appreciated. The reviewer enjoyed the variety of recipes and the detailed head notes that explain the sweetening elements in each dish. They also found the book well-organized and practical, with useful sections on equipment and ingredient substitutions. Overall, the reviewer was impressed by Levy's careful recipe development and the complex, satisfying flavors achieved without traditional sweeteners.
Quick quotes
There was no single understudy that could swoop in to cover all those roles. A lot of auditioning was going to be required. I had to focus on breakthroughs: There were things I couldn’t do for want of sugar (meringue!), but it was amazing how many things I _could_ make without it.
The flavour profiles are more complex too. Take the _Date, Rye and Olive Oil Brownies_ for example: rich and fudgy like a traditional brownie, the dates (nearing a pound in weight) offer both a sweet flavour and chewy texture but they also highlight the subtle nuttiness of the rye flour and bitter umaminess of the cocoa powder.
The recipe has very few ingredients — canned coconut cream, gelatin powder, dates, finely ground coffee beans, and vanilla extract — but, when tasting the set panna cotta, you’d think there was more!